Mar 10, 2017 - 21 sec - Uploaded by Mallery G.50:51. Synopsys Custom Designer Tutorial for inverter using Parametric sweep using SAE tool.

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If you just want to get building move on to step 1. Background This instructable is part of a larger project to build the ultimate bicycle computer, which you can read about on my. It will show you how to build an electronic rear derailleur for Shimano parts. I've tested it on the RD-4500 Shimano Tiagra, but this method should work with similar derailleurs. Rather than pulling the shift levers, you press a button to get to another gear.

Motivation 1. Once both derailleurs are electronic you get automatic trimming, which means no more chain rub! Easier/smoother shifts. OK so it's not super hard to change gears with mechanical levers, but going electronic means you get an accurate shift every time.

Cheaper than the commercial alternatives. Like thousands of dollars cheaper. When your gear changes are combined with other metrics like your heart rate, gps, speed and incline you can improve your ride by finding your weakness. Were you on the correct gear on that incline? It's a conversation starter. Adding electronics to anything is always cool!

Skills Required - Basic soldering and electronic skills. See Sparkfun's - Very basic Arduino knowledge like how to upload a program. See Sparkfun's - Basic bike mechanic skills like a removing derailleur, if you do your own bike maintenance you be should OK Progress So far we've got the rear derailleur shifting and plan to do the front so look for future instructables for updates and new features.

At the time of writing the software does not turn off the servo to conserve battery power because there is a chance of gear slippage. This means you will have limited ride time. A fix for this coming soon so follow my instructables account. Open Source Up to date Arduino sketch, schematics, Fritzing diagram, bill of materials and CAD diagrams can be found on the project page. Future plans - EEPROM wear levelling - Waterproofing and better a enclosure - Better cable management - Machined servo bracket Step 1: Tools. You can find most of these parts at your local hardware or electronic shop.

Harder to find items have links to online stores. Soldering stuff Soldering Iron Solder Solder Fume Extractor Multimeter Desoldering wick Electronics USB to Mini-USB connector FTDI USB connector 10K resistors x2 Parts Project box - 2.1' x 3.5' x 1.25' Protoboard - About half the size of a breadboard Solid core wire - 22 gauge 5 feet of stranded wire - 22 gauge 3 wire ribbon wire the length of your bike Single pole changeover switch rated for 10V minimum Potentiometer Momentary push button x2 - 12 pin female pin headers x2 Velcro strips 016' thick aluminum sheet Zip ties Nail #3 Screw bolt x4 #4 screw bolt x2 Step 3: Electronic.

We recommend prototyping on a breadboard before making modifications to your bike. Copy the Fritzing diagram to a breadboard and see if you can make the the servo move then start soldering using the protoboard. Tip: Adafruit sells a protoboard that looks like a breadboard called the.

When you are done testing your circuit on a breadboard just transfer the design without any modifications. They also sell one that fits in a Altoids mints size tin.

Step 1: Take the Protoboard and create the circuit using the Fritzing diagram and schematic. Note: Always wear googles while soldering or doing machine work. Picture 1 and 2 Step 2: Connect the wires through the back and put jumpers on the connections that attach to the servo and buttons Cut the wires from the back and make the connection according to schematic.

Picture 3 and 4 Step 3: Solder wires to the center pin and one other pin of the switch. Make sure to put heat shrink on the wire first. Attach the Molex pin terminal to one pin.

Buku Rouhani Kristen Gratis Pdf Converter. Drill a hole in the top of the project box and mount the switch. Picture 5 and 6. Step 4: Route the wires through holes in the side of the project box then attach the other to the positive output of the Lipo Boost converter. Picture 7 Step 5: Attach the negative output of the boost converter to another Molex terminal. Attached the wires with Molex pin terminals to the Molex connector as showin in Picture 8. Make sure the orientation matches the connector on the protoboard. Step 6: The end result should look like Picture 9.

Connect the Lipo battery to the boost convert and the Molex connector from the switch to the protoboard. After checking for shorts with a multimeter turn on the power. Picture 10 Step 7: Program your board by installing arduino on your computer and loading this Turn on the your board and make sure your servo functions to your button presses Step 8: Using heat shrink solder two wires to you buttons after flattening the pins.

Use a heat gun or the barrel of a soldering iron to shrink the heat shrink. Do this for each button Picture 11 and 12 Step 9: Tape the buttons in a comfortable position on your handlebar. Twist the wires to get them out of the way. Picture 13 and 14 Step 10: Attach Molex pin terminals to each wire for each button. Attach one wire from each button to a Molex connector.

Picture 15 Step 11: Route the wires on your handlebars using hockey tape. Picture 16 Step 12: Test the circuit so far pressing the buttons.

Step 1: Mount the servo to the bracket using #3 screws such that the tab is away from the servo head Picture 1 Step 2: Take out your old derailleur and clean it reapplying grease when your done. See for instructions Remember to tape your gear cable to the bike. Step 3: Since the servo is not strong enough to move the derailleur we must remove the spring. NOTE: This means your derailleur will not without a servo. I do not believe it is possible to remove it without cutting it so use your dremel or heavy duty wire cutters for this. This is difficult so have some patience and wear goggles. Picture 2 Step 4: Attach the servo and backet to the derailleur as pictured using a #4 screw.

Picture 3 and 4 Step 5: Attach the servo wheel and mount arm on the servo and screw in the other arm of the mount arm to the derailleur using the old bolt. Make sure the servo can move freely through the entire range of motion.

Picture 5 Step 6: Test to make sure that the derailleur moves when pressing the buttons Step 7: Remount the derailleur Picture 6 Step 6: Wiring. Step 1: Strip the servo wires and the ribbon cable. Solder them together with heat shrink. Picture 1 and 2 Step 2: Measure and cut a length of ribbon cable long enough to reach the front of the bike.

Connect Molex pin terminals to the other end of the ribbon cable and insert them into the 3 pin Molex connector. Make sure the orientation is compatible with the the connector on your protoboard.

Step 3: Route the ribbon cable to the front of the bike following the original cabling using hockey tape. Secure the original cable to the frame with tape if you don't want to completely remove it from your bike.

Picture 3 and 4 Step 4: Place the buttons comfortably near the derailleur lever on the handle bar and velcro it in place Picture 5 Step 5: Attach the controller to your bike and connect the wires to the servo and button using the Picture 6 and 7 Step 7: Calibration and Testing. Calibration There are a few variables that need to change in the Arduino sketch depending on which position the servo was in when you installed it.

These are: int SERVO_STOP_LOW; int SERVO_STOP_HIGH; They determine how far the servo can move. To find these change #define MANUAL_MODE 0 to #define MANUAL_MODE 1 This allows you to control the movement of the servo using a potentiometer connected to pin 3. Upload the sketch and open the serial terminal.

Find the values by moving the servo to its limits and update the variables. Change MANUAL_MODE back to 0. You may also want to play with the servo_step_size variable.

It determines how much the servo moves on each button press. Testing Close everything up and ride the bike for a while making sure the gears and chains are attached well. Test out the up and down gear shifts to see if they adjust to new gears. If not, attach the Arduino to your computer and reprogram the values. Look for future instructables and the for updates. I've been tinkering around with an arduino and an old rear derailleur trying to implement something like this, but wasn't sure of the best type of motor to use. I'm thinking of a worm gear rather than a pushrodand servo, as it will hold its position without power. Does anyone have any recommendations about where I can find motors that are lightweight and powerful enough?

It's a bit tricky trying to estimate how much torque you need to shift under load, so I'm just guessing as to how much grunt the motor needs. Love the work you've done on this!

Here's an idea for when you get the front der added to the mix: Since you are using an arduino, how hard would it be to program in a gear sequence so when you hit the upshift or downshift buttons it progresses to the next gear in a logical sequence, moving either or both the front and rear ders? Also, since my ride is a home built trike with a mid-drive, I have 1 front on a triple, a 6 cog mid, and a 7 cog final.

Could this be programmed to account for all three? I would definitely be interested in building something like this! Thanks for the 'ible! Very cool project!! Shifting in sequence is very doable but I question its usefulness on the road at least for the way most bikes are geared and the way I ride.

First, although, mathematically, there may be 21 gears, there are usually duplicates. You would not want to waste time shifting to a gear that is marginally different. Ok, you need to (and can in fact) program the arduino to bypass one or the other. Secondly, when I shift I usually change only one derailleur. To clarify, say I have a triple chain ring.

On the ride, I find a sweet spot using the middle ring. UpHill coming - I switch to the smaller front or a larger rear but not both on one shift. Don't need to - one or the other improves my situation and usually close enough.

If not close enough, I tweak (probably with the derailleur I did not change initially). Chances are my changes are not sequential at all. So maybe a programmed set of 'my favs' gears would be more useful whether accessed sequentially or directly.

If we really were to put in the bells and whistles, Version 17.1 would chose the gear for you based on your cadence, heart rate, the incline, your power output and your fitness level and length of ride. It also stores your ride history and uses predictive logic to determine the gear and when it will shift. But I am happy with the promise you've shown so far! Very inventive. >how hard would it be to program in a gear sequence so when you hit the upshift or downshift buttons it progresses to the next gear in a logical sequence, moving either or both the front and rear ders?

Not difficult at all. A few people have requested this so I'll add it to the feature list. The only difficulty is making installation easy with all of these new configurations. >Could this be programmed to account for all three?

The next version has an LCD so each user could choose their configuration on the screen. Thanks for the kind comment. Good to hear the front derailleur will be easier to modify. I've seen your project a while ago and looks like you've made a lot of progress lately. I'm really impressed how professional it looks especially for someone who started tinkering with electronics in 2011! >Have you had any problems with derailleur ghost- shifting over large bumps?

I'm thinking of adding some tension or a normally closed brake to hold the derailleur in place to fix this. Maybe we should chat and see if we can help each other out. Email me at nabil dot tewolde gmail.com. So my thoughts are, first, this is already really fancy, but if you wanted to get EXTREMELY fancy, you could input your specific sprocket sizes into the program, then add a gyroscope, and some way to measure speed onto the system. Then, (idk if the arduino can get this fancy) you could program the computer to automatically shift depending on the incline of the road and your current speed, using its knowledge of the sprocket sizes to find the ideal gear ratio. With some trial and error, the system could ensure you are at an optimal gear ratio and there for optimal (maximum) speed at all times. Download Aplikasi Blackmart Untuk Android.